Dismantling America's relationship with fast fashion: Bryan Marville from WORN
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June 28, 2024
👋Hello lovely people of the D2C Community! This is your host Berkay writing.
In the 10th episode of the D2CVille Podcast, we sat down with Bryan Marville, founder of WORN. This brand specializes in performance socks, crafted from Arrowool™, a boosted version of Merino fabric.
Bryan went through extensive product trials—wearing one sock on each foot during long runs—to bring forth a product that boasts elasticity and excellent moisture control.
Yet, success isn't solely about the product, right? Navigating finances, marketing, supply, and all the other elements are crucial for a thriving startup. By the way, Bryan isn't a fan of the term "startup"; he prefers to call it a business!
Bryan highlights a concerning fact: On average, an American disposes of a garment after just three wears. It's a rather disconcerting realization, isn't it? That's why he's dedicated to offering premium products designed to last. His goal is twofold: to ensure customer contentment while presenting a more sustainable solution to their needs.
Without further ado, let me leave you with Bryan’s great entrepreneurial story. Sit back, relax, and enjoy!
How was WORN born?
Pre-WORN, Bryan spent 12 years in New York's advertising industry, strategizing for major brands like Bud Light and Uber. This revealed the core of successful branding: addressing consumer needs is paramount. Fascinated by product development, Bryan's final role involved consulting for startups, exposing him to the founders' passion for problem-solving.
The journey took a pivotal turn with Bryan's debut project, Wet Sox, initially targeting specialized sock solutions. However, a broader demand for high-performance socks emerged. This shift led to the sale of Wet Sox and the birth of WORN, Bryan's direct-to-consumer brand, WORN, 2.5 years ago.
“So I decided to start my first project. The first project was a small company called Wet Sox. We built it around the concept of creating frictionless socks for getting in and out of wetsuits or hunting and fishing gear. We developed that over three or four years. Through that process, we realized there was a demand for higher-performing, feature-rich socks in the general consumer space, even though that wasn't the initial focus of that project. We wrapped up and sold the first project and launched WORN about 2.5 years ago as a direct-to-consumer brand.”
“There's an opportunity to improve any market that has been commoditized”
The original project, Wet Sox, aimed to simplify the process of getting in and out of a wetsuit, which can be challenging and uncomfortable. While seeking a solution to this issue, Bryan experimented with various fabrics for about three months, eventually creating a pair of socks that facilitated smooth entry and exit from the wetsuit.
Upon testing the socks, they proved highly effective and gained positive feedback from fellow surfers and shops. This success prompted further product expansion over three years, all while he managed the project alongside his full-time agency job.
This experience made Bryan understand the potential for innovation even in saturated markets. “There's an opportunity to improve any market that has been commoditized” By offering practical functions or unique problem-solving features, Bryan captured people's interest in unexpected ways. This insight inspired the development of WORN, where they leveraged market analysis to enhance existing solutions and test this approach on a larger scale.
Initially, Bryan evaluated cotton socks, noting their popularity due to affordability, even for premium variants. However, cotton's water absorption—up to ten times its weight—leads to stretching and dampness, often mistaken for excessive sweating. As wet cotton doesn't dry effectively within shoes, it's unsuitable for socks.
So his attention shifted to Merino wool, a robust and soft organic fiber. He blended it with technical fabrics for elasticity and moisture management, resulting in Arrowool—a foundation for WORN’s products.
Arrowool surpasses cotton, retaining less water, lasting longer, maintaining shape post-wash, offering natural antimicrobial properties, and being eco-friendlier due to recycled materials. Recently patented, Arrowool showcases our innovation by enhancing Merino wool with technical prowess, filling market gaps, and setting new standards.
Developing something unique
"We wouldn't have introduced a product that wasn't significantly better and had a significantly different market story because otherwise you're just a brand.And you're trying to spend money and we didn't have any money."
Bryan’s aim was to craft a product that not only excelled but also possessed a distinctive market identity. They were resolute in avoiding becoming just another brand lost in the crowd, given their budget constraints. So their focus was on creating genuine value and a unique narrative, steering clear of the commonplace "me-too" label.
“I bought a very expensive pair of socks from a big brand that a lot of people know. We call them the B word…”
Bryan bought a pricey pair of socks from a prominent brand. These socks cost around $18 per pair. He had high hopes, assuming they had perfected their product. These were among the options we experimented with during our testing phase, and he expected them to be strong competitors.
So he took them on a five-mile run but was surprised to find hotspots on his feet and even a hole in one sock upon returning. This experience was a turning point, reshaping WORN's approach. It prompted a significant shift in their thinking regarding the choice of fiber and product quality.
The market is saturated with products that are essentially iterations of the same idea. Then there are the players using cotton and Merino wool.
“But any time you have 100% of any fabric, you have the weaknesses of that fabric. Did you ever ask if 100% Merino is what you need or did you just get marketed to and told that? 100% was the best because it's easier to produce than creating a technically enhanced version.”
So their objective was to surpass existing product quality, using them as benchmarks. Months and years were invested, involving various testers for feedback.
Bryan's approach involved wearing two different socks daily—one from our brand, one from a competitor—during runs and activities. This enabled direct comparisons, even with prototype socks.
Detailed notes and discussions guided improvements in subsequent iterations. Refined prototypes were given to about 20 friends for testing. Feedback informed enhancements.
This method, though gradual, led to a product effectively addressing identified issues.
Bryan is not the biggest believer of the term "startup."
"I think that there's like this strange loveaffair with,I have an idea I'm gonna call it a startup.And if I call it a startup,it doesn't have to make money and someone should give me money for it."
The notion that calling an idea a startup guarantees funding is unrealistic. Successful ventures often stem from years of dedicated effort. Founders prioritize product development, forgoing luxuries like lavish salaries or extravagant expenses. They focus on refining their vision, understanding growth takes time.
So Bryan concantrated on product evolution for two years. Sales weren't the initial focus; instead, they aimed to be operationally ready for significant orders. Once they reached that point, they pursued investors through cold calls and showcasing WORN's unique product's market potential.
"Before we send investors our deck and, talk about a US market size of 8 billion and all these big stats thateverybody already has,we're gonna send you a pair of our product."
Bryan sent potential partners his product as an initial step. This hands-on experience is crucial; if they're not impressed, they don't expect further communication. When they find value, he initiate discussions. This approach showcases their confidence in our product's quality and its capacity to stand on its own.
The journey had challenges, notably when Bryan shifted from Wet Sox to Arrowool™s potential. Recognizing its patentable nature, Bryan refined it meticulously, constructing a precise narrative.
However, the original brand couldn't encompass this grand idea, prompting WORN's creation. This transition was planned after extensive product development.
The process was more than product creation; it demanded a comprehensive go-to-market strategy. They faced the spotlight, outlining not just a superior product but also their direct-to-consumer brand approach, customer acquisition, and more. Partner outreach took months, with some positive reactions still leaving them questioning. Feedback ranged from nuanced design suggestions to misalignments in perception.
Such moments were humbling, reminding Bryan that success is an ongoing process requiring adaptation and the openness to learn and evolve based on feedback.
As conversations progress, connections with industry-experienced individuals, often referred by fellow founders, shape your approach. So Bryan's initial external investor engaged in a four-month dialogue before finalizing the deal, crucial for our direct-to-consumer expansion. To demonstrate readiness, Bryan invested $20,000 on his personal credit card for website, imagery, and photoshoots, elevating our brand from components to a cohesive, scalable concept.
Sustainability
Bryan's sustainability approach involves two core strategies.
Firstly, WORN's supply chain and material selection prioritize strict environmental standards. Supplier adherence to these guidelines is foundational. They integrate certifications and eco-friendly practices in supplier choices, establishing a sustainable product base.
"...around 10,000 liters of water and 16% of the world's pesticides for a kilogram of raw cotton. Despite its affordability, it leaves a significant environmental impact"
Material selection involves evaluating ecological footprints. While cotton has historical appeal, it demands excessive resources, significantly impacting the environment. They opt for fabrics with more favorable footprints, aligning with their ethos of high-performance and environmental responsibility.
"Yvon Chouinard said the most sustainable product is the product to keep the longest."
Secondly, they promote enduring products. Durability counters the disposable mindset, reducing repeated purchases. They reject the wear-and-discard culture, advocating for longer-lasting, well-designed goods. This stance minimizes the environmental impact tied to production, shipping, and disposal.
"And the average American consumer only wears a garment like three times, which is terrifying. But that's not a model we want to participate in. And so to avoid that you have to build something that is very durable and also performs longer."
Bryan's mission extends to shifting perceptions of basics. They offer lasting products, valuing consumer value and environmental contribution. Better materials and longevity align with our broader sustainability goals, challenging the commodity mindset and fostering eco-conscious change.
Smart packaging makes inventory forecasting easier
WORN's supply management includes a versatile packaging approach. Products and packaging are designed to seamlessly shift between D2C and wholesale channels, eradicating the need for dual inventories. Unlike smaller brands, they chose unified packaging to simplify logistics, leveraging experience.
Packaging must align with both wholesale and D2C needs. If it hampers shipping efficiency, it escalates costs.
"we knew that the metrics of success were, the product looks great on a shelf, doesn't make a lot of waste and will ship well to a consumer."
Developing an in-house tracking system tailored to your needs is highly effective, Bryan says. They monitor sales, inventory, and crucial metrics using this approach. SKUs are organized by channels for independent performance tracking, like D2C and wholesale, enabling informed decisions.
Plan for future scalability when setting up systems. Organize data anticipating future analyses to prevent complications as your business evolves.
Their system logs SKU info and unit sales monthly, revealing sales trends. In-house inventory and burn rate calculations help predict inventory longevity, preventing shortages or overstocks.
While external software aids growth, starting in-house customizes tracking and builds a robust foundation for growth.
The biggest mistake Bryan made
" I felt that some of our customer acquisition costs in some channels were too high and I didn't correct that immediately... You would have acceptedearlier that you were over paying for a customer when you could have grown a little bit slower,saved that money.And instead of taking two years, it would have taken three years.But you've been in a less stressed cash position.
If you reached this point, well, thank you! Please consider following D2CVille on social media and contacting us if you’d like to be a guest in one of these podcast episodes!
And if you’re looking for high-performance socks made out of greatest material, visit WORN. They have pretty cool stuff...