Dismantling America's relationship with fast fashion: Bryan Marville from WORN
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June 28, 2024
👋Hello lovely people of the D2C Community! This is your host Berkay writing.
In the 10th episode of the D2CVille Podcast, we sat down with Bryan Marville, founder of the performance socks D2C brand WORN.
After spending 12 years in major ad agencies in Madison Avenue and working with brands like Bud Light and Uber, Bryan started two sock brands. Selling the first after a successful sprint, he is now fully focused on WORN.
During our conversation, we talked about bootstrapping, investors, CACs, their patented fabrics, and many more!
Without further ado, let me leave you with Bryan's great entrepreneurial story. Sit back, relax, and enjoy!
🧦 The First Company - WETSOX
Motivated by his passion, Bryan embarked on his entrepreneurial journey with his first project, WETSOX. The company centered around creating frictionless socks for wetsuits, hunting, and fishing gear. Over three to four years, the project revealed an unexpected demand for high-performance socks in the general consumer market. This discovery prompted them to conclude their work on WETSOX and sell it. Then about 2.5 years ago, Bryan launched WORN as a D2C brand, marking the beginning of a remarkable journey for him.
🤓 Worn Socks
There's an opportunity to improve any market that has been commoditized”
In the early stages of the WETSOX, Bryan aimed to simplify the wetsuit-donning process for morning surfers in New York. Dissatisfied with existing solutions like a hand-puppet-like device and "suit lube," he developed socks for easy wetsuit entry after three months of research and 16 fabric attempts. These socks quickly gained popularity, leading to the expansion of the venture over three years. Bryan's journey taught him that personal pain points can drive innovation, and dedication and persistence can lead to success - even while working full-time at an agency.
🐑 The patented Arrowool™
In WORN's initial design phase, the team aimed to test their theories on a larger scale. They considered cotton socks due to their affordability but realized that cotton's water absorption caused stretching when wet, making it an unsuitable fabric. So, they shifted focus to Merino, known for its strength and softness but lacking elasticity and moisture management. By combining technical fabrics with Merino, they created Arrowool™, a performance-enhanced material with superior water resistance, durability, shape retention, antimicrobial properties, and low environmental impact. Recent patent approval has boosted their confidence, and WORN is gaining traction in the market with positive customer feedback.
🏃 Continuous Product Testing
We wouldn't have introduced a product that wasn't significantly better and had a significantly different market story because otherwise, you're just a brand.
Bryan, an avid outdoors enthusiast, brought a unique perspective to product design. He purchased socks from a well-known brand at $18 per pair, considered the gold standard but revealed issues after a five-mile run. This experience led to a complete overhaul of the product concept, from fiber selection to quality.
Recognizing the competition, including brands like Darn Tough and SmartWool, Bryan initiated extensive testing, involving hundreds of individuals and practical assessments by running with different sock pairs. Around 20 prototypes were distributed to friends, who provided valuable input after three days of use. This iterative process allowed them to fine-tune their product until they achieved their desired outcome.
💪 Growth Metrics
Our metric was us
The internal research and development process was guided by a clear vision. Despite Bryan's non-traditional background in textiles or fabric design, his consumer perspective and active lifestyle informed their work. As a dedicated runner and outdoor enthusiast experienced in demanding physical activities, he understood the needs of various scenarios, from hiking to outdoor work in winter conditions or manual labor.
Their benchmark for success was themselves, as they couldn't find the products they genuinely desired in the market. This personal and performance-driven approach drove their journey to create the ideal solution.
💰 Bootstrapping an Ecommerce Business
I think that there's like this strange love affair with, ‘I have an idea I'm gonna call it a startup. And if I call it a startup, it doesn't have to make money and someone should give me money for it!’ That’s sort of absurd, right?
In WORN's initial two years, they operated with complete bootstrapping. Bryan dispelled the misconception that labeling a venture as a startup would attract funding without a solid profit plan. They stressed hard work and dedication, with the team often working from their homes or garages during evenings. They prioritized product development over non-essential expenses, refraining from drawing salaries. Their focus was on honing the product to align with their vision.
For WORN, this meant a deliberate, slow-paced approach. Their primary goal was to let the product organically evolve, not solely on sales. They aimed to be prepared to handle 100 orders daily if the demand emerged.
💲 Customer Acquisition Costs
Bryan approached the brand's development from two angles. Initially, they focused on performance-based marketing with a sustainable ethos. This "higher performance, smaller footprint" concept guided them.
On one hand, the grand vision was crucial, serving as an unobtrusive beacon, amplifying their journey and maintaining focus on their overarching goal. On the other hand, their marketing sometimes delved into micro-level details, with budgets ranging from $50 to $100, focusing on metrics like customer acquisition costs and retention rates.
Bryan acknowledged this dual approach as somewhat of a double-edged sword. The macro perspective sets the bar for product quality, while the micro-level considerations of performance marketing present their own complexities. A balanced approach is key to a brand's success.
📞 Approaching the investors
And everybody that we've worked with has gotten product first before we've even talked about cash.
In their pursuit of investment, Bryan and the team took an unconventional approach by cold-calling potential investors. They sent a tangible representation of their vision - a pair of their product - with a straightforward pitch: "Try our distinctive product. If you like it, let's discuss it further." This approach allowed the product to speak for itself before any financial discussions began, fostering a unique connection beyond the typical investor pitch.
The journey had its challenges, especially when transitioning from WETSOX to the innovative Arrowool wool. They needed careful planning and a compelling narrative. The birth of WORN as a broader concept to support the new fabric prompted extensive product development and a clear go-to-market strategy.
Challenges arose in their interactions with people and potential partners, including issues with website images not resonating with the target audience. However, valuable insights and lessons came from fellow founders who openly shared their past mistakes, proving to be a valuable resource in their entrepreneurial journey.
And then when you start talking to other founders. This amazing thing kind of happens and I wish I'd have started doing it earlier. But the first thing a founder will do is be really empathetic about where they've just completely screwed up and they'll just hand that information to you because they don't want you to have to go through the same thing.
🤝 The First Investor
Securing their first non-family investor took four months, marking a pivotal step into the direct-to-consumer market. They invested $20,000 on Bryan's personal credit card for website development, lifestyle images, product photoshoots, and to ensure a professional and scalable appearance. Every aspect, from branding to execution, had to be meticulously arranged.
After aligning all the pieces, they presented their vision to the investor, emphasizing their unique approach to a curated shopping experience based on occasions and fabric variety. Bryan believed this risk-taking approach was key to closing the deal, despite a challenging process. He stressed that while smooth initial conversations leading to funding are great, aspiring entrepreneurs must be prepared to work hard and persist, as each subsequent conversation may pose new challenges. Having the mindset that you'll always need to work for it puts you in a more secure position.
♻️ Ecommerce Sustainability
Yvon Chouinard - the founder of Patagonia - said the most sustainable product is the product to keep the longest.
WORN's sustainability strategy has two main components. The first focuses on their supply chain and materials, involving careful selection of environmentally responsible suppliers who adhere to environmental protection standards and certifications. They view this as essential business practice.
In terms of fabric selection, they prioritize materials with a lower environmental impact. For instance, they avoid cotton due to its high water consumption, pesticide use, and contribution to wastewater. Their material choices consider both product quality and environmental footprint.
The sustainability strategy extends beyond sourcing to the idea that the most sustainable product is one that lasts the longest. WORN aims to create highly durable items, particularly in product categories often considered disposable. They reject the fast-fashion model and aim to deliver basics that offer better value for money while being environmentally friendly. Their vision aims to shift the paradigm by offering eco-friendly, long-lasting essential products, reducing the impact of disposable consumer culture.
👨💻Ecommerce Marketing
WORN's direct marketing strategy involves a trial-and-error approach, starting with small budgets and a focus on top-of-the-funnel activities, including audience testing. They face additional complexity due to the introduction of iOS 14. To effectively address this challenge, they use a third-party attribution tool like Triple Whale, which plays a crucial role in ensuring data accuracy. Cross-referencing data is essential because relying solely on information from advertising platforms can be unreliable.
In their experience, Google tends to provide fairly accurate data, while platforms like Meta (formerly Facebook) often display a tendency to be overly optimistic with their conversion numbers, a recognized industry issue. Success in this area relies on an iterative process of conducting repeated tests and learning from them. There's no one-size-fits-all solution because different audiences have varying scalability rates. Therefore, an adaptable approach is crucial to efficiently adjust and meet the unique requirements of each audience.
Making mistakes
Do you wanna be worried that you're gonna run out of gas when you're traveling 100 miles an hour or do you wanna drive 55 miles an hour all the way there without worrying about it? It’s your call.
Reflecting on their journey, Bryan acknowledges that mistakes were an important part of their learning process, even if not immediately recognized. A key mistake was the pressure to grow at a specific rate, driven by having investors on board. Initially, they consistently exceeded their revenue projections for 24 months, a remarkable achievement. However, they overlooked customer acquisition cost projections.
A more balanced approach could have been accepting that they were potentially overpaying to acquire customers. Growing at a slightly slower pace while saving money might have been wiser, leading to a more financially secure position with less stress. These insights become more apparent with experience.
Entrepreneurs should consider how they want to lead their day-to-day lives: constant resource worries while rushing at full speed or a more stable and manageable pace. Different approaches exist, but Bryan suggests staying small, conducting tests, learning, and putting in the hard work to build a sustainable foundation.
I felt that some of our customer acquisition costs in some channels were too high and I didn't correct that immediately
Bryan identifies a significant mistake in their journey, one that may resonate with others: rapid growth at various stages. There were instances when customer acquisition costs in specific channels became excessively high, but he didn't address this concern promptly. He now recognizes that when these costs become unsustainable, it's crucial to engage with the team and reassess the approach. Founders may feel tied to self-imposed projections but must remember that the ultimate responsibility is to do what's best for the business. Adaptation is key to success.
However, Bryan also acknowledges that, at times, they were caught in a cyclical pattern of continuous fundraising, aiming to raise increasingly substantial amounts each year, though this wasn't fully realized. He questions the viability of this approach, suggesting that the smartest strategy might be different from the initial conception, highlighting the need for adaptability and openness to change.
😬 Call yourself a business not a startup
In reflecting on his journey, Bryan recognizes a significant mistake: referring to their venture as a startup rather than a business. This choice of terminology affected their approach and mindset, altering their operations. He emphasizes the importance of viewing it as a business, as this perspective naturally encourages more efficient and sustainable operations.
🚚 Ecommerce Supply Chain
Packaging is the key to a successful supply chain
WORN uses a streamlined packaging system that caters to both direct-to-consumer and wholesale channels. All their products are packaged in the same way, avoiding the complexities of managing separate packaging for each channel. This approach is a deliberate choice, informed by their experience transitioning from retail to Amazon and direct sales. They initially focused on reaching out to numerous surfing and dive shops, providing samples to around 750 to 1,000 of them, with a significant percentage choosing to place initial orders. While these orders were relatively small, they played a pivotal role in launching their venture.
WORN recognized the benefits of setting up for wholesale from the beginning, simplifying their processes. However, they stress the importance of designing for both wholesale and D2C from the start, as long as it doesn't compromise efficient shipping or lead to overly large packaging. Striking a balance that considers appealing product presentation, waste reduction, and efficient shipping can significantly streamline operations and reduce complications.
“We knew that the metrics of success were for packaging,
It should look great on a shelf,
It doesn't make a lot of waste
It will ship well to a consumer and
It can be used in both D2C and retail.”
If you reached this point, well, thank you! Please consider following D2CVille on social media and contacting us if you’d like to be a guest in one of these podcast episodes!
And if you’re based in the US and looking for great performance socks, visit WORN! They have pretty cool stuff...